Share of the cut
Ranchers find stability in selling beef portions directly to consumers
Cattle graze Sept. 2 in a pasture at Carnation Farms in Carnation, Wash.
Left: Livestock manager Alex Hagiepetros looks on as cattle graze Sept. 2 in a pasture at Carnation Farms in Carnation, Wash.
Above: Human resources director Mandi Fillmore unveils a sign Sept. 2 ahead of the grand opening of a butcher counter in the farmstand at Carnation Farms.
AGRICULTURE
As two dozen beef cattle graze in Carnation Farms' fields in Washington state, livestock manager Alex Hagiepetros, 37, rattles off facts about them.
Some are Belted Kingshire cattle, and others are Angus-Shorthorn crosses. They have names. They enjoy listening to music.
"If we're going to eat meat as a society, the animals should be respected and well cared for," Hagiepetros said. "Is it hard to look at them and eat them? Yeah. It should be."
Americans crave hamburgers, brisket and sirloin, but rising beef prices are ruining their collective appetites. The cost consumers paid for beef and veal in July jumped 9% over 12 months, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics.
Farmers aren't immune to economic headwinds either, though their sticker prices for customers largely held steady. They point to a limited supply of cows and market instability as hurdles for their operations. They also have to contend with nature's whims, including drought conditions.
Some producers find beef share programs to be a happy medium. They can sell their meat directly to consumers, and patrons save money by stocking in bulk.
"The concept overwhelms people because you get so much at one time," said Tiffany Cooper, who participates in a beef share at Springherd Farms in Snohomish, Washington. "But then you go to the grocery store, and prices are ridiculous."
Supply and demand
Understanding the cost of your steaks and roasts requires a holistic look at the beef supply chain.
"Even family farmers and ranchers like us, we are part of a global market," said Bridget Coon, first vice president of the Washington Farm Bureau. Coon, 43, runs the Bar U Ranch in Benge, Adams County, with her husband, who is part of the fifth generation to steward the family farm.
The U.S. beef cow inventory almost halved since hitting its peak of almost 46 million in 1975, per the U.S. Department of Agriculture. This year, it reached only about 28 million as of July.
President Donald Trump's administration tried to ease the high cost of beef by slashing tariffs on Argentina and Brazil, two major international suppliers. He also temporarily boosted the amount of lean beef trimmings, which make up ground beef, allowed to be imported to the U.S. Eric Popp, director of regenerative agriculture at Carnation Farms, said the business would love to scale its operations. "We're having a lot of trouble finding animals," he said. "It's really making our ability to expand our herd pretty difficult right now." To incentivize producers to sell their animals, Popp, 38, said the farm offers more than the average auction price, though that "is actually a pretty big cut into our margins."
Win-win model
Farmers found a sweet spot in beef share programs. It skips the middleman, Popp said. "That's actually how the majority of cattle in the Snoqualmie Valley are sold: direct to consumers."
At Carnation Farms, customers can buy an eighth share, a quarter share, a half share or a whole share of a cow, which can reach about 300 pounds. The smallest share consists of only ground meat, while the rest feature various cuts.
The business takes a deposit to reserve the share. Then, the customer pays the balance, which is based on price per pound of the hanging weight, on top of harvest, cutting and processing fees.
For example, a quarter share requires a $200 deposit. The deposit goes toward the total. At $7.50 per pound, it would amount to $937 for about 125 pounds.
Add in the fees, and it reaches about $1,113, or about $9 per pound.
The nationwide average for beef in July ranged from $6.90 per pound for ground beef up to $14.60 per pound for some cuts of steak, according to data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics.
"That's really how people have been able to afford to eat beef consistently," said Popp, who lives in North Bend, Washington.
Booming business
There's already a waitlist to join Carnation Farms' beef share for next year. The business, which also sells lamb and mutton shares, was set to open its own butcher counter this month.
"The consumer saves money; the producer makes more money," Popp said. "A lot of times, you can go out, and you can see where your animal was raised. You can talk to the person who raised it."
At Springherd Farms, "we can't hardly keep beef in stock," said Mandy Hereth, who owns the business with her husband, Karl. "Our neighboring farms are selling out six months in advance."
Her spouse is part of the fifth generation to run the farm, which his family established in 1901. They maintain a herd of 100, sending 25 to slaughter each year.
For 2026 and 2027, a quarter beef share costs an average of almost $7 per pound. A half share is $6.50 per pound, while a whole share is $6 per pound.
The program is a bright spot in an "unstable market" for beef right now, said Hereth, 46.
